At 09.10 we start hiking to Conca, direction west. We manage to do the 9km (5.5 statute miles) in about 1h 40mins (the Velbinger says 3-4h for the opposite direction), and we're now 250m above sea level and having our siesta right in front of the shop (read: garage) where we just bought 9 (in words: nine) liters of liquids and drained 4 of the 1.5 liter bottles in less than half an hour. That's not gross, that's simply necessary after going through hell: almost no shade at all and the sun burning merciless on our weakened bodies. Several oncoming hikers seemed to be quite cheerful... they are already through with it.
Well while we just hang around there, a little black cat walks by. She's very unafraid, rubs against my legs and lets me stroke her. Thomas holds one of his boots under her nose, and she turns away with disgust. But when he does the same with one of my boots she goes off like a rocket, and I can really understand that.
After the worst heat is gone at about 14.00 we get up and start the first day's march of the GR 20. The Velbinger says it's about 4-5h in the opposite direction, and given the fact that we managed the march to Conca in half the time the Velbiger told us it would take we are quite optimistic about it.
Just several hundred meters later we find a source that gives us lots of the stuff for free we payed good money for and have already carried 100vm up the hill: drinking water. While we are moistening our hats, a French meets us and tells us that he left Col de Bavella this morning about 7h ago, and that he has passed the Paliri refuge (our destination for today) about 5h ago. He looks well-conditioned and for the first time the thought passes our minds that we might not be able to reach Paliri before dawn. We continue our way nevertheless; we've already lost lots of time getting on the GR 20.
![[wassup?]](bilder/ae.jpg)
A shady place
The way is tough: little shade, only uphill. At 16.30 we reach a cascade of small ponds where water comes down a wall of rock (OK, at an angle of about 45 degrees) and gathers in cavities that are large enough to serve as a bath tub. One of them actually is a small pool, and there's no holding me from going in skinny-dipping. After having a bath for a quarter of an hour, I get out of the water feeling refreshed, and Markus can't be kept from capturing this magnificent moment on celluloid [image censored :-)].
OK guys and gals, that's the one for the public...
By 17.00 we walk on, but we don't get very far. As if by command both of my knees start going berserk; the muscles surrounding them have spasms, and massaging them with an ointment results only in temorary relief. After deeply considering the pros and cons we go (I trudge) back to the cascaded ponds where we found a sand plain that's quite suitable for putting up a tent on it, because we wouldn't be able to get to Paliri before dawn, especially with spasming knee muscles. Signs saying Camping Bivouac Feux Interdits etc. just mark the place as a good camp ground. The only problem is - water; I already noticed its slightly foul taste during my dip, and after some recovery I climb the cascade of ponds (without the heavy rucksack on my back and taking it slow, this works fine) and find out why: the water runs slowly through some water hollows before it goes down the cascade, and these hollows are wallows of wild boars, as both my eyes and my nose tell me!
However, after cooking the water seems to be alright and it loses its foul taste. Thomas and Markus have a swim in their birthday suits, too, and now it's my turn to take the photos, just for vengeance. Swimming makes hungry, and so we gulp down a big load of rice. I cook out another 3 liters of water for tomorrow before we decide to call it a day. We put the tent up, I dig a small hole for the hip (it gives you a much more comfortable rest), and being tired from today's exertion we drop off almost immediately.
Forbidden places are best...